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This week, we are going to cover some different stitches. My camera is still on the fritz, and since there would be way too many still pictures for each stitch (plus I’m crazy busy with work and home life this week) I decided to link to some great videos that I found on the web. They should help clear up any questions you might have for each stitch, and what they don’t I will (hopefully!)

This week we will learn:

• Shell stitch
• Popcorn stitch
• V stitch
• Puff stitch
• Bullion Stitch

Shell Stitch

Here is the link to the shell stitch. This stitch makes a very pretty pattern, perfect for afghans.

Popcorn Stitch

The link to the popcorn stitch. This is a common stitch used to add texture to a crocheted piece.

V Stitch

The video for V-stitch. A very pretty pattern that is quite simple to work.

Puff Stitch

The link to the puff stitch video. The puff stitch is very similar to the popcorn stitch, and adds texture to the piece.

Bullion Stitch

You can find the bullion stitch here. These stitches are quite tall, and add texture and a unique look to a piece.
These are just a few of the many, many stitches used to add dimension and beauty to crochet pieces. On the Nexstitch site, there are lots of different videos for many different stitches that you can learn when you have the time!!

Here are this week’s patterns. I spent a bit more time going through them (and I didn’t do it late at night LOL) so hopefully I made better choices than last week.

Pattern #1: Shell Stitch Square (this pattern is for a 6″ square. Work it using your H hook, if you find you are around 6″, do a round of sc around the edges, which should bring it to 7″. Or try using a bigger hook (Ie I)
Pattern #2: Fall Flower (don’t worry about color changes yet)

Pattern #3: Circle of Hope
Pattern #4: Puffs and Posts
Pattern #5: Bullion Beauty
Feeling ambitious?

Pattern #6: Puff X Square This pattern will look intense when you first look at it. Don’t get overwhelmed. Translate each round at a time and make sure you have it before you start. It will be easier than you think

Good Luck!!

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Welcome to lesson #2! I hope that you enjoyed lesson #1 and are confident with what was taught in that lesson.

Topics to be covered in today’s lesson are:

• How to end your square
• Slip stitch
• Half Double Crochet
• Double Crochet
• Triple Crochet
• Crocheting in the round

To begin with, I apologize for the lack of videos. I couldn’t get my camera to turn on, no matter what I tried. I will be taking it to be looked at this week, so hopefully it will be back in time for next week’s lesson. For this week, I took a ton of pictures using my new camera (that doesn’t have video, go figure ). The picture quality isn’t the best, I’m still trying to get used to all the functions of the new camera, plus I was taking these in my dingy basement office, so not a lot of light at all. But it is still pretty clear what to do, and again any questions feel free to comment with them, or ask them on the Flickr group.

And for my lefties Here is a great link that will help you with holding your hook and how to make each of the stitches that we will learn today. I hope it helps you out!

Alright, let’s get started with Lesson #2!

How to end your square

I forgot to go over this last week. When you get to the end of your square, make one more chain. Take out your hook, and cut the middle of the loop. You can then pull the piece attached to your skein out, and pull the other cut end to tighten. Hope that makes sense!
Slip Stitch

The slip stitch is used to join work, bind off stitches or carry yarn over to a different working position without adding height.

Begin with a regular chain:

Slip your hook through the chain, under one loop.

Wrap the yarn around the hook one (also know as “yarn over” or “yo”).

Pull the yarn through the loop, giving you two loops on your hook.

Pull the loop on the left through the hook on the right, leaving a single loop on your hook.

That’s it! Slip stitch is really easy, and its a stitch you will likely see in the majority of your crochet patterns.

Half Double Crochet

The half double crochet is between a single crochet and a double crochet in height.
As usual, we will start this stitch with a chain

Yarn over and slip your hook through the third chain from the hook (the two chains you skip will become your first hdc for the row)

Yarn over

Pull the yarn through the chain, giving you three loops on your hook.

Yarn over, and pull the yarn through all three loops on the hook

This is what a row of half double crochet will look like

Double Crochet

The double crochet is about twice the height of a single crochet, and one of the most popular crochet stitches.

Start with your foundation chain

Yarn over and slip your hook into the fourth chain from the hook (the three chains that are missed count as the first double crochet for the row)

Yarn over

And draw the yarn through the chain, giving you three loops on your hook

Yarn over, and pull the yarn through the first two loops on the hook. This will give you two loops remaining on your hook.

Yarn over again, and pull the yarn through the last two loops on the hook

Clear as mud? This is what your double crochet will look like as a finished row

Triple (aka Treble) Crochet

A triple crochet is even taller than a double crochet, nearly 3 times the height of single crochet.

Starting with your foundation chain, yarn over your hook twice

Slip your hook through the fifth chain from the hook (the four skipped chains become the first triple crochet of the row). This gives you four loops on your hook.

Yarn over

And pull the yarn through the chain, giving four loops on your hook.
Yarn over, giving you five loops on your hook
Pull the yarn through the first two loops on the hook, leaving 3 loops

Yarn over, giving 4 loops on the hook

Pull the yarn through the first two loops on the hook, leaving 2 loops

Yarn over once again, giving three loops

Pull the first loop (yarn from yo) through the last two loops on the hook, completing your triple crochet

Here is what a row of triple crochet will look like

So now you’ve learned the basic and most common stitches of crochet – slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet and single crochet. Most of the patterns will be made up of a variety of these stitches.

Crocheting in the round

Crocheting in the round is very common for afghan squares and hats, to name a couple of groups of patterns.

To begin, you have to create a center ring. The center ring is the foundation for crocheting in the round, just like the foundation chain when you are working in rows. To make a crochet ring, simple crochet a number of chains (the exact number varies depending on the pattern)

Then you will join the last chain to the first chain using a slip stitch. Slip your hook through the last chain (the first chain you made, beside the slip knot)

Yarn over

And pull the yarn through both loops on the hook

After you make the center ring, you are ready for the first round. You’ll start off by making the number of turning chains corresponding to the stitch you are using. For example, I will be working with double crochets in these photos, so the number of turning chains will be three. Another way to determine the number of turning chains is that it will be equal to the number of chains you skip when you are starting a row (ie sc is 1 chain, hdc is 2 chains etc)

For double crochet, chain 3

The double crochet is worked the same as in a row, but instead of working through the chain, you are going to work around it.

Pass your hook through the center of the ring

Yarn over

And pull the yarn through the ring

Complete your stitch, in this case the double crochet (yarn over, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through the last two loops on the hook)

You will work your stitches around the ring, until you reach the number required by the pattern. You will then identify the top of the turning chain (in this example, the turning chain was 3, so you will identify the third chain from the ring before you started doing the double crochets, identified by the arrow)

Slip your hook through the chain

Yarn over

And pull through both loops on the hook (making a slip stitch) to close off the round

Occasionally you will work your stitches into the chain, but the majority of the time you will work them around the ring, as I’ve shown.

When you are working in the round, you will not be turning your work (unless the pattern calls for it). You simply crochet in the round, end the round by making a slip stitch through the turning chain, and then continue working in the same direction.

Patterns

I will be giving you three patterns for the week, so that you can get used to all the stitches and working them together. I recommend doing them in the order I list, from easiest to more difficult.
Each pattern has a photo so you know what your finished square should look like, and I will be doing these as well so again if you have any questions don’t be afraid to ask! Don’t be intimidated by the pattern, remember to write it out in plain language if you think that will help.

Again, you may want to make 2 of each pattern, so that your lapghan is a bit bigger in the end
Pattern 1: Pretty Pebbles Square

Pattern 2: Basic Granny Square Don’t worry about changing colors yet, that’s a later lesson! Just work this pattern in one color.

Pattern 3: Wheel In Valleys

Good luck, and most importantly, have fun!!

I started a Flickr group to share your photos, discuss the lessons and ask any questions you may have!

Come join!

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Today’s lesson will be a summary of the basics to get you started with crochet. The topics I will be covering are:

Common Terms and Abbreviations
How to read a pattern
Gauge swatches
Basics: Chain, single crochet
Turning your work

Got your supplies? Great!!! Let’s get started

Common Terms and Abbreviations

This is a list of common terms and abbreviations that you will come across when reading crochet patterns. Learning these terms and abbreviations is a huge step towards reading a pattern.

beg: begin(ning)
ch: chain
dc: double crochet
dec: decrease
est: established
hdc half double crochet
inc: increase
lp(s): loop(s)
rep: repeat
rev sc: reverse single crochet
rnd: round
RS: right side
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
sp(s): space(s)
st(s): stitch(es)
tog: together
tr: treble crochet
WS: wrong side

Often there will be different / new abbreviations that will come up on a new pattern. More times than not, the author of the pattern will define and describe the abbreviations at the beginning of the pattern.

I recommend printing off a copy of the common abbreviations to have beside you for quick reference as you are learning.

How to read a pattern

First things first: Reading crochet patterns takes practice, so don’t be discouraged if you don’t understand all of the patterns you would like to crochet the first time you read it. The patterns are full of symbols and abbreviations, but once you learn to figure out what is meant, it will all become really clear.

I will start by writing a line of a pattern as you may see it:

Row 1: With size H hook, ch 15, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn (14sc)
In plain language, this means:

Row 1: With a size H crochet hook, chain 15 chains. Work a single crochet into the second chain from the hook and in each of the chains until the end of the row. Turn your work. (You will work a total of 14 single crochets for this row)

As you can see, the abbreviations are used to shorten the patterns and make things more streamlined. I find it helps to read an entire pattern from start to finish, and write the pattern out in plain language if you need to. Make sure you have a good understanding of what you are going to do before you start your project, it will save you lots of stress and frustration.

Other symbols you will see in a pattern are:

* : repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

For example, the pattern may say: …..*2sc, ch1, rep from * across. This means you will work 2sc, ch1, 2sc, ch1, 2sc, ch1… until you reach the end of the row.

[ ] = work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
( ) = work directions in parentheses as many times as directed

For example, the pattern may say: ….(2sc, ch1) five times (or….[2sc, ch1] five times). This means you will work 2sc, ch1 five different times. So the total amount you would work would be 2sc, ch1, 2sc, ch1, 2sc, ch1, 2sc, ch1, 2sc, ch1. Clear as mud?

I found a great resource for reading crochet patterns, and it explains things so much better than I ever could. Check it out at Annie’s Attic

Gauge Swatches

Gauge is the term that is used to define the proper tension you should work so that your finished project becomes the right intended size. The hook size listed in the pattern is just the size used by the designer to work at the proper gauge, however you may need to change hook size in order to work at the given gauge, depending on if you tend to crochet tighter or looser than the designer. It is especially important to work to the proper gauge when making garments – anything that you want to fit properly. Gauge is not so important with things like blankets or scarves, things that don’t require a specific finished size.

Gauge is usually defined in the pattern by a ratio of stitches and rows to a given measurement such as 16 stitches and 14 rows in single crochet = 4″. This means that if you do 14 rows consisting of 16 single crochet, your completed square should measure 4″ x 4″.

Work a swatch of the yarn you are going to use in the stitch pattern of the piece you are making (ie if your pattern is all single crochet, you will make a swatch in single crochet. If your pattern is a shell stitch, you will work a swatch in the shell stitch). Then count the number of stitches and rows in the measurement given in the pattern. If you find that your swatch has more stitches and rows than the gauge, you are working too tightly so change to a larger hook and try again. If you have fewer stitches and rows in the area, you are working too loosely and should try a smaller hook. You may have to change your hook a few times before reaching the correct gauge. Sort of a pain, but worth it if you want garments to fit properly.

Gauge wont be really important for these lessons, as we are simply making squares for a lapghan. But it is a good thing to know

Slip Knot, Chain, and Single Crochet

How to make a slip knot:

Chain:

Single Crochet:

Turn your work by flipping it over. Once turned, your working yarn and tail will now be on your right hand side, as will your hook.

Thank you all so much for your response to the idea of classes for learning to knit and crochet. Due to the demand, I will offer classes for both yarn arts, starting with crochet. Each class will run for 12 weeks on Tuesdays, which I think will be a good length of time for learning the basics I will answer questions as well, I think that I might make one post on the weekend answering questions rather than answering them individually throughout the week, just to save on time for me, but that depends on the anxiousness of the question

As I stated before, each week we will discuss a new technique or stitch, and then there will be a pattern at the end that will allow you to use your techniques just learned. The patterns will be for afghan squares. The idea will be that you can make up a couple of the squares each week, and then when we get to the later lessons you will finish off the squares, seam them together and then you will have a lapghan to show off! The last lesson will be a show and tell lesson, where I will post pictures of everyone’s afghans that they made

To start, I suggest getting a couple of hooks, size G (6, 4.00 mm) and H (8, 5.00 mm), some yarn needles, a tape measure, and some acrylic yarn. I say acrylic yarn because it seems to be the best yarn for learning with, as well as it is super easy to care for (throw it in the washer / dryer). I suggest Red Heart Super Saver yarn, its cheap and comes in lots of colors! You will probably want to grab a few different colors, that way you can make your squares different colors for a fun lapghan! You can make them coordinating or just mix it up, its totally up to you!

Everyone who signs up, completes the lessons, and sends me a picture of their completed lapghan with feedback on the lessons will be entered into a draw, and I will randomly choose a winner. The prize will be a box of goodies to help you expand your crocheting skills!

Terms and Abbreviations
How to read a pattern
Gauge swatches
Basics: Chain, slip stitch and single crochet
Turn

Lesson 2

Half double crochet, double crochet and triple crochet

Lesson 3

• Shell stitch
• Popcorn stitch
• V stitch
• Puff stitch
• Bullion Stitch

Lesson 4

Increasing and decreasing

Lesson 5

How to create ribbing (2 different methods)

Lesson 6

Cables

Lesson 7

Tunisian crochet

Lesson 8

Changing colors in crochet

Lesson 9

Weaving in ends, blocking

Lesson 10

Joining / seaming

Lesson 11

Finishing techniques (crab stitch, ruffles)

Lesson 12

Show and Tell

Disclaimer: The lessons are just a general outline of what to expect, and may change from week to week depending on the questions / feedback I may receive!

The lessons will start next Tuesday!!

ETA I removed the note to sign up, since it isn’t necessary and I don’t want to confuse anyone!